Disconnecting from the chaos of the city at Batanes, Philippines

The province of Batanes is a group of islands located in the northernmost fringes of the Philippines. It is so north that it is actually closer to Taiwan than to the main Philippine island of Luzon. People would always hear it mentioned when a typhoon is referenced to it because of the doppler radar in the area, which somehow brands the province as a typhoon-prone island, but the locals told me that they are rarely hit by typhoons.

Every Filipino will have Batanes on their travel bucket list because of the serenity it offers, however, the flights going there can be a bit more expensive. Because of my friend’s persistence, we were lucky enough to get one of our tickets at half the price. We also went at a non-peak season, in August 2016. I have already forgotten the total amount we paid for the roundtrip flight, but I think it was somewhere around Php 9,000 each. Batanes is served by two airlines, Philippine Airlines and Skyjet, with one trip from Manila to and from the island each day.

Since our trip was mainly for de-stressing, we joined a small tour group for 3 days for about Php 5,000 each. Our guide picked us up from the airport in the morning and brought us to the century-old house that we rented for a few days. The mobile signal in Batanes is pretty bad. I was using Globe mobile, and I was only getting 2G. We didn’t have wifi at our accommodation,  so it was a really good opportunity to disconnect from the very chaotic city life.

Batanes has 3 main islands: Batan, Sabtang and Itbayat. The capital, Basco, is in Batan, while Sabtang is a short boat ride from Batan. Itbayat, however, is a bit farther. We were able to explore both Batan and Sabtang.

Batan Island

Our first stop is the pretty and picture-perfect Mt. Carmel Chapel which sits atop Tukon Hill. It is probably the most photographed church in Batanes because it really is very charming.

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Mt. Carmel Chapel

We had our first glimpse of Batanes’ beautiful landscapes  at Vayang Rolling Hills. You will need to go on a bit of a hike (it’s an easy one, don’t worry!) to be able to see the stunning view. It was like an endless continuous wave of pretty green hills that is facing the West Philippine Sea. There were  no other people in the place when we went there and it was just so peaceful.

Vayang Rolling Hills

In Batan Island, you won’t see white sand beaches but you’ll see boulder beaches like this one in Valugan. It faces the Pacific Ocean and the waves aren’t so gentle. The shore is full of boulders which came from the eruption of Mt. Iraya hundreds of years ago. It is quite tricky to go down the shore as slipping and tripping could get you to serious trouble. Those are seriously huge and hard boulders down there and not everything you put your feet on is stable, so be very careful. But the sight and the sound of the water splashing on the rocks is really something very pleasing and not to be missed.

Valugan Boulder Beach

Among the things that make Batanes very picturesque are the pretty lighthouses scattered around it. People would love climbing them all the way up and bask in the amazing views and fresh air. It is also a popular choice for pre-nup shoots.

Basco Lighthouse

Racuh a Payaman

This has always been the highlight of every trip Batanes, a visit to Racuh a Payaman, or more popularly known to tourists as Marlboro Country. I will not describe it to you anymore but will rather let the photos speak for themselves.

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Racuh A Payaman (Marlboro Country)
Western side of Racuh a Payaman (Marlboro Country). The Tayid lighthouse is visible from here.
Tayid Lighthouse
Cows peacefully grazing at the protected hills of Racuh A Payaman
Right at the back of the Tayid lighthouse is this beautiful view

Sabtang Island

Sabtang Island is a 30-min boat ride from Batan. The boats here, locally called faluwa, do not have the usual outriggers (Filipino “katig”) because the strong waves and currents at the sea tend to destroy them, so the locals just removed them. These are just small motorized boats, which just seem to dance along with the waves, and it can surely be one hell of a ride, so come prepared. It’s amazing, though, how the boat pilot is very at ease and calm despite all the wave action happening out there in the sea. Surely, there are things that only years of experience can teach you. And these boats, they can carry motorcycles! 🙂

Faluwa: the boat to Sabtang Island

In Sabtang, there’s the very nice Morong Beach which has some really fine white sand. Probably, the best swimming experience you can get in Batanes is from this beach. It is free for everybody to go there. No cottages, no commercial establishments, but there are toilets.

Morong Beach

Sabtang has its very distinct character because it is home to the Ivatan stone houses that are very unique to Batanes and have stood there for many years. Those thick brown roofs are made of dried cogon grass.

Ivatan stone house
Ivatan stone house

And then we went to these vast fields of lush greens in Sabtang which stretches out into the sea. You’ll never run out of beautiful landscapes to see in Batanes.

Vast fields in Sabtang
One of the many edges of the lush greens in Sabtang

The Ivatan People

The locals, the Ivatans, are among the nicest people I have ever met. Batanes is home to a very peaceful community and very helpful people.  I remember when I and my friends are trying to find a tricycle that will take us to the restaurant for dinner and couldn’t find one, so we asked a random guy in the street where to find them. He said they just call them on the phone and he tried to call one for us. When he couldn’t get an answer, he rode his motorcycle and went to the tricyle terminal and hailed a tricycle for us. That’s one story I will keep telling people about Ivatans.

Fishermen heading to a day out in the ocean
A vakul weaver in Sabtang
Getting food out of the sea

More Interesting Things about Batanes

VAKUL. It is a headdress worn by the Ivatan people for protection from harsh weather elements. It is more commonly found in Sabtang where people weave them from dried cogon grass.

BLOW UR HORN. Yep, those are signs that are only seen in Batanes, so unique that they made them into ref magnet souvenirs. You gotta blow your horn in blind curves. Animals may be crossing the streets.

COCONUT CRAB. This is a local delicacy and served steamed. This crab eats only coconuts and is completely terrestrial. Looks weird, eh? But tastes like our usual freshwater crabs.

SABTANG TRICYCLE. Only here can you see a tricycle with cogon grass roofing and wooden, sculpted body.

HONESTY COFFEE SHOP. The Ivatans are very honest people and they even have a store without any staff in it. They just trust that you pay the right amount in the cash box.

BLANK BOOKS. Somewhere in Batan, we passed by this library of blank books. Everyone is free to write anything on them so you leave a little something of you in Batanes. I am a happy writer in Book #763 😉

VAHAY NI DAKAY. This is the oldest stone house in Batanes, constructed in 1887, which was one of the few which survived a huge earthquake in 1918.

Dios mamajes, Batanes! ❤

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